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Cycledrome Bicycle Shop
Mon - Wed: 10:00am - 6:00pm
Thu, Fri: 10:00am - 7:00pm
Sat: 10:00am - 4:00pm
Sun: Closed
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Feature Items

  • Shimano PD-M520 Pedals
    $44.99
    Product Rating
     
    4.0 stars
     (9 Reviews)

    Shimano's M520s are affordable clipless pedals that are easy to enter and exit, and built to last. They boast dual-sided Shimano SPD bindings, which make them perfect… [more]

  • Park Tool Bottom Bracket Wrench (External Bearing)
    $21.99

    The Bottom Bracket Wrench removes and installs Shimano Hollowtech II, Race Face X-type, FSA MegaExo, Campagnolo Ultra-Torque and TruVativ Giga X-pipe bottom brackets.… [more]

  • Park Tool Spoke Wrench
    $6.99 - $9.49

    Park's professional-quality, precision-sized spoke wrenches are hardened and chrome plated for long service. Wrenches are vinyl coated in one of four colors indicating… [more]

  • Park Tool Fixed-Gear Lockring Wrench
    $16.95

    Park's Fixed-Gear Lockring Wrench features 2 different radius hooked spanners for a precise fit, and easy removal and tightening of most fixed-gear lockrings. The HCW-17… [more]

  • Greenfield Stabilizer Rear-Mount Kickstand (Powdercoat Black) (285mm)
    $25.99

    Greenfield's Stabilizer Rear-Mount Kickstand attaches to the rear of the bicycle so it's perfect for bikes that won't accept regular kickstands. It's also durable, light… [more]

  • Mirrycle Incredibell Jellibell
    $12.99
    Product Rating
     
    5.0 stars
     (1 Review)

    The Mirrycle Jellibell is a fun way to let pedestrians and other riders know you're coming! The Jellibell has a see-through top so you can see the gears spin as it… [more]

  • Park Tool Crown Race Setting System (1, 1-1/8 -inch)
    $84.95

    Quickly, safely and easily set your crown race with Park's CRS-1 Crown Race Setting System. It includes 6 different inserts (3 for 1-inch and 3 for 1-1/8-inch steerer… [more]

  • Park Tool Crank Puller (Octalink / Isis)
    $15.99

    Park's Crank Puller is for removing crankarms on Shimano's splined, oversize, pipe-billet bottom brackets. It employs a long handle and a fine thread for the leverage… [more]

  • Finish Line Shock Oil (8-Ounce Bottle)
    $18.99

    Shock Oil is a semi-synthetic formulation that combines the best of available oils and additives for a super suspension oil. It's fully compatible with all systems and… [more]

  • Park Tool Bottom Bracket Tool (Octalink / Isis)
    $15.95

    Park's BBT-18 is a heavy duty, investment cast tool for installing and removing all Shimano, ISIS Drive, and ISIS Overdrive 8-notch bottom bracket cups. [more]

  • Burley Classic Hitch
    $29.00

    Burley's Classic Hitch makes a great replacement for lost or damaged hitches. This replacement hitch attaches to the trailer's tow bar and switches easily between… [more]

  • Topeak Shuttle Lever 1.2
    $10.99

    Topeak's Shuttle Levers are strong enough for even the busiest shops; think what they'll do for that tight road tire and fat downhill rubber. These levers are extra long… [more]

  • SRAM PC-971 9-Speed Chain
    $23.99

    SRAM’s PC-971 Chain delivers light weight, strength and smoothness to your drivetrain. Its nickel-plated sideplates provide faster and more accurate shifting plus… [more]

  • Park Tool Hex Wrench Set (4, 5, 6 mm)
    $10.95

    The AWS-1 is one of Park's most-popular tools because it fits the most-turned bicycle bolts. It features 4, 5, and 6mm Allen wrenches in a Y shape for excellent… [more]

  • Topeak FlashStand
    $44.95
    Product Rating
     
    1.5 stars
     (2 Reviews)

    Topeak's FlashStand is a super work/display stand that folds up to become extremely portable as well! This affordable two-footed wonder supports your bike at the bottom… [more]

  • Specialized P2 Overendz Bar Ends
    $25.00
    Product Rating
     
    5.0 stars
     (2 Reviews)

    Specialized's P2 Overendz Bar Ends increase your hand positions and boost your leverage for climbing, too. They're made from nylon composite for minimal weight and… [more]

  • Park Tool Hex Wrench Set (2, 2.5, 3 mm)
    $11.95

    The AWS-3 offers 2, 2.5 and 3mm Allen wrenches in a Y shape for excellent leverage. The Allens are vinyl coated for comfort, too. [more]

  • TruVativ Giga Pipe Team DH Bottom Bracket
    $56.00 - $63.00

    Downhillers and freeriders need tough gear that can handle the abuse of big air and huge drops. TruVativ's Giga Pipe Team DH Bottom Bracket uses four sealed cartridge… [more]

 

Brake Adjustment

While bicycle brakes offer excellent stopping power, over time the cables may stretch, the brake pads wear and a pad might drag on the rim. Because your safety depends on optimum braking, we’ve prepared these guidelines for common adjustments to ensure that your grippers are always at their best.

Please note that these instructions are for conventional brakes, not disc brakes. If you need adjustment for your disc brakes, bring them to us. Also, because brakes are so important for safety, we do not recommend working on your conventional brakes unless you’re confident in your ability to do the job right. And, keep in mind that in order for brakes to work properly and to make the adjustments explained in this article, the wheels must be true and round (no side-to-side wobbles, up-and-down hops or bends).

If you have any questions about brake adjustment please give us a call or bring your bike in for service and we’ll be happy to help.

Tightening the Brakes
For off-road, comfort, hybrid and city bikes with upright handlebars; look at the brake levers for a Turn the barrels to tighten the brakeshandy device called an adjusting barrel (photo).

It will have a knurled edge for easy gripping and it makes adjusting your brakes easy without tools.

It’s perfect for making your brakes feel like new after you’ve logged a good many miles and worn down your pads. And you can even use it on rides if your brakes begin to feel weak as sometimes happens when it's muddy or wet.

To use adjusting barrels, turn them counterclockwise by hand and check the setting by squeezing the levers. When the brakes feel right, lock the barrel adjusters in position by turning the lockring (the second knurled piece) clockwise until it's tight against the lever.

On road bikes with dropped handlebars, you’ll find the adjusters on the brakes (photo). To tighten For sidepulls, the adjuster is on the brakethe brakes, turn the adjusters in the direction that moves the pads closer to the rims.

Keep in mind that when your brake pads wear out, the adjusters won’t do any good and you’ll need to turn the adjusters all the way back and replace your brake pads.

Wheel Centering
One of the most common brake problems is a dragging brake pad; one that remains against the rim or stays close to it after you’ve released the brake lever. 

The most common cause of this problem is a misaligned wheel. This can occur when you reinstall your wheel after removing it to put your bike on a roof rack or to fix a flat tire, and you don’t get it exactly centered in the frame.

This causes the brake to work improperly because it’s tight on the frame and has been adjusted to align properly only on a perfectly centered wheel. Now that the wheel is crooked in the frame, the brake can't work correctly.

To correct the dragging shoe, simply center the wheel in the fork or frame. For most wheels, all that’s usually required is loosening, making sure they’re fully inserted in the fork or frame, and tightening them. (If the bike is standing, just press down on the handlebars for the front wheel and the seat for the rear wheel to push them fully into the frame and center them.)

If you have a frame that lets you place the rear wheel in different positions, check that the wheel is Use your fingers/thumbs to judge centering (brake removed for clarity)centered between the seatstays and chainstays before tightening it. You can do this by looking at it or use your fingers as “feeler gauges” by sliding the same finger on each hand between the frame and rim or tire feeling if it’s centered (photo; the brake was removed so you can see the details).

Brake Centering
If your wheels are centered and the brake still drags, the brake may have gotten bumped and knocked out of position on the frame. Start by double-checking that the wheel is centered in the frame because you don’t want to ruin the brake adjustment if it’s actually set correctly.

To center sidepull brakes (road bikes), loosen the attaching bolt behind the fork crown or brake bridge until the brake is loose. (It shouldTurn to fine-tune centering move sideways when you push it).

Now, squeeze the lever to hold the brake pads against the rim while you tighten the brake bolt on the back of the frame. If the brake needs minor fine-tuning after this, look for a small screw (it might be an Allen type) on top of the brake. Clockwise turns (photo) will move the brake shoe on the side of the screw away from the rim and vice versa. (This screw is not intended for major adjustments.)

If adjusting the screw doesn't center the brake, screw it back to where it was and double-check how well centered the wheel is because that's probably the problem.  

To center linear-pull brakes (off-road and hybrid bikes), look for a small screw in the side of the brake arm. Clockwise Turn the screw to center the braketurns of this screw (photo right) will move the pad in the arm with the screw away from the rim and vice versa.

Brake Binding
Brakes should operate smoothly and easily and the brake pads should snap away from the rims when you release the levers. If not, the brake pivots or cables might be dry, causing binding.  To free the pivots, lightly lubricate the brakes where the arms pivot (photo below) and squeeze the levers repeatedly to work the lube into the brakes. (Be sure NOT to get any lube on the brake pads or rim. If some gets on them; wipe them clean with A little lube keeps brakes from bindingrubbing alcohol.)

Better? If not, it might be the cable that needs lube. Usually, this is only required on rear cables with split housing (if you have split housing you can see the middle of the inner cable and the housing is in two pieces).

Look closely at where the housing sections enter the stops on the frame. If the stops are split, you’ll be able to remove the housing and lubricate most of the cable. If the housing stops aren't split, raise the bike so that gravity will draw the lube into the housing section, apply a few drops of lube on the cable and squeeze the rear brake lever to draw the lube into the housing. Repeat for the front section of housing.Release the cable to lube it

If the housing stops are split, open the quick release on sidepull brakes or unhook the noodle on linear-pulls. This should provide enough slack so that you can pull gently on the housing sections and free them from the frame stops (photo). If you need more slack, squeeze the brake shut with your hand.

When the housing is released from the stop, slide the rear housing section (with flat-handlebar-equipped bikes you’ll be able to slide the front housing section, too) along the cable so that you can lubricate the cable where it runs inside the housing, which should eliminate the binding. Then reconnect the cables and your brakes should feel as good as new.

If you have any questions or would like our professional technicians to service your brakes, just give us a call or bring your bike into the shop and we'll be happy to help.

 

Cycledrome Bicycle Shop

Cycledrome Bicycle Shop | 8150 Hamilton Blvd, Breinigsville, PA 18031

Phone: (610) 398-6631

Open: , , , Closed Sunday  |  Site Map

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